London Fashion Week takes us to the French Riviera on day three
Oh A sunny yet crisp third day of Saturday set the mood for showgoers London Fashion Week. With the heatwave suddenly seemingly far behind us, the fashpack descended on day spots in boots and coats, spring/summer 2023 looks to have an extra air of optimism. Especially influenced by France south of Eudon Choi Catwalkin his signature color block, and SS Daly’s theatrical homage to Peter Rabbit.
The second day was mixed with reflection and hope. It had some serious moments to honor the Queen. Elizabeth IILike a minute of silence in Bora Aksu. It was also encouraging, though, because of the clothes designed for care-free hedonism after a promising lockdown-free year. Mark Faust brought the party with a 1980s rave revue, and Edward Critchley and KNWLS delivered club-worthy looks.
The sad news also foreshadowed a third day, via an exemption from the schedule: September 17 was set to include the Burberry show, but the house last week canceled it as a “mark of respect” for the Queen. But announced its cancellation. Instead, we’ll have to wait to see Christopher Bailey’s collection on a rescheduled date, with his funeral scheduled to take place on Monday.
However, many designers decided to heed the British Fashion Council’s advice that shows could go on in deference to “the mood of the nation”, so Eudon Choi was first on our schedule.
In an unexpectedly airy space hidden behind a central London record shop, Eudon Choi globetrots his audience. Wanderlust has had a thread of their shows during the Covid times, and has continued this for Spring/Summer 2023. The French Riviera. The show was affectionately titled Baiser Sale (Salty Kiss), a celebration of love.
There was definitely an air of romance in the carefree looks, like broderie anglaise ponchos, ruched bodycon dresses, sailor-collared shirts, and accessories: headscarves and crocheted bonnets. As is Choi’s magic, wearability looks balanced with beauty. The dresses had a sense of lightness, thanks to clever details like cut-outs on the back seams of the shirts, pleated epaulettes on the shoulders of the other, and tassels hanging from the shoulders of one dress, which the designer says was meant to help. They “dance in the sea breeze”.
Many items were designed without gender. Traditional menswear-inspired oversized blazers in 1930s beachwear and cheerful pops of navy blue, as well as tangerine palazzo pants and Breton striped shirts. Happily, the summer line also included an illustrated print in a nod to French artist Jean Cocteau. Overall, this collection was just the kind of summer fling we can get on board with.
Next up was this wearable on another favorite for occasion wear: Rexo. Founders Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey launched the label eight years ago, and its success has been unparalleled. Along with a legion of wedding guests, the likes of Margot Robbie and Sandra Bullock have donned the couple’s dresses. Despite the pandemic’s negative impact on fashion, they’ve been able to expand into other categories over the past few years: coats, nightwear and bridal, and last week they announced they were expanding their size range from six to 24. Extending to
So for Spring/Summer 2023, the dresses and separates launched at The Hop Exchange in London Bridge, and saw models of all ages and body types in the full spectrum of sizes. The show was called Postcards of Goa, featuring shimmering sea creatures, tiles and burnt flowers.
Proving just how party-perfect the new line is, the cast performed it on a raised stage dancing like no one was watching to the Prince and Luther Vandross classic.
As well as their much-loved high slits and plunging necklines, the new range includes a halter neckline with cutouts reminiscent of the Kendall Jenner bikini hack that everyone on Instagram was rocking this summer. I have jumped. In addition, there were styles for the more modest, such as matching midi and button-up shirts. There’s no doubt that the eclectic range of looks will allow Rixo to attract even more new fans next year.
The day continued with SS Daily, which marked the Liverpudlian’s first show since winning the prestigious LVMH prize in June – and it’s safe to say it didn’t disappoint. The environmentally conscious menswear designer is known for his theatrical showcases, regularly casting dancers as models who often perform routines themed around his collection’s aesthetic.
Staged at the palatial St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel in King’s Cross, this season’s show began as many others have: with a tribute to the Queen. As the lights went down, seven models walked the runway, which was surrounded by tufts of grass, in black and white dresses holding candles while gongs blared over speakers.
However, the mood quickly lifted due to a playful orchestral tune and the first look on the runway. The clothes themselves were an eclectic mix: white suits, striped dressing gowns, wide-leg corduroy trousers, slogan jumpers, and linen two-pieces. Some models carried bags filled with fresh flowers, while others carried teddy bears, or baskets of eggs.
Over time, a Peter Rabbit theme emerged – rabbit ears gave him away, as did the whiskers painted on some of the models’ faces. But it became clear when the models stopped mid-show and began reciting passages from Beatrix Potter’s books before lightly dancing around each other.
The highlight, though, was the casting. SS Daly is one of the few designers so far this season that has included models of all shapes and sizes in her shows. It’s a refreshing change from the token plus-size casting we often see at LFW. May continue for a long time.
There was a palpable sense of excitement ahead of the launch of Newgen designer Fabian’s collection. In a short time, she has already become an industry favorite and counts Beyonce as a fan. bow down.
A soundtrack pairing Zebra Katz with the Yeah Yeahs kicked off the show, delighting the weary crowd of showgoers. The collection was equally stunning with microminis, bralettes and butt-flushing beaded fringe dresses featuring high-necked ruffled blouses and white shirtdresses.
The designer’s signature bobble dresses cut in a richly bias cut were revamped in mustard with beaded edges, floral prints and black for Spring/Summer 2023. Adorned with horns.
The final walk was met with a standing ovation from the crowd, making it clear that there was plenty of eagerness to see what Fabon’s next move would be.